Back Again (Again)

I’m back in Sana’a, and L took me on a tour of the old city. It’s really beautiful, and until about 70 years ago, this walled city was the entire extent of Sana’a. The streets are very narrow and lined with shops. By the time we got here, it was prime qat-chewing time, so things were a little subdued, but it was probably better that way. I popped my head into a couple shops and didn’t buy anything until I saw this one necklace that I really liked. After my own pathetic attempt at bargaining, I walked away with a beautiful silver and garnet necklace and a lighter wallet. L was, I think, somewhat appalled by how much I got ripped off (I probably spent about $30) and said “um….Mrs. Amanda, please next time you want to buy something, you tell me. They see you are not Yemeni and they give bad price…”

It appears that some things never change, I am still terrible at bargaining. Well, I haven’t bought anything for myself here (besides food), so I think it’s okay. There are a lot of beautiful things here, and I’m thinking about getting a jambia (one of those knives with the belts that the men wear) next time. I don’t like accumulating stuff for the sake of having stuff (because it *is* just stuff, after all), but I like things that have an interesting story or history. But then there’s the part where I’m sick of shopping. Although getting almost all of my Christmas shopping done in Vietnam last summer was pretty nice – it felt like that was my primary recreational activity there. That, and buying extra bags to cart all of that stuff home. However, it’s just too early to start on shopping for *next* Christmas. Even for me.

It’s funny how L calls me “Mrs. Amanda” – he knows I’m not married, so he either sees the fake wedding ring and understands that life here is easier for me if people think I’m married, or he doesn’t quite get that “Miss” and “Mrs.” mean two different things. Either way, I don’t feel the need to correct him.

The one thing that made me just about die laughing on the way in was a store that was called, according to the sign out front “MYASS FOR TRADING”. I tried not to laugh too hard, because I didn’t feel like explaining it to L. He speaks English, certainly more than I speak Arabic, but his English is still somewhat limited.

I’ve gotten good at twisting a scarf up into a hijab – I don’t do it most of the time, but when we’re driving through rural areas or walking around the city a lot, I feel a little less conspicuous if my hair is covered. I realize that this is all in my head because I’m very tall, I’m very white, and I’m not wearing an abaya or a niqab, blending in is unlikely. But I think people here also appreciate it if you try.

The drive here was really uneventful, which is always a good thing. We got waylaid a couple times at a few military checkpoints – at one point they tried to get us to have an armed guard come with us. L said no, if they had their own vehicle, they could follow us, but that was it. After some hemming and hawing, they finally decided it wasn’t worth the trouble and let us go. It really would be a lot easier to just tell people I’m from South Africa or something – I don’t think they’re pissing anyone off at the moment. However, I usually consider it a good idea not to lie to men with large guns who could ask for backup.

I get to hop on the plane tomorrow and finally get home. (This won’t be posted until after I’m home, though.) I swear, I woke up early this morning, feeling the way I used to on Christmas morning when I was little. My bags are all packed, and I’ve told the hotel that I need my airport shuttle by 8 am. Even just getting to Dubai will feel really.

Time for bed – despite the nap I took this afternoon and the excitement I’m feeling, I’m still tired. I’m starting to unwind a little…thank goodness.

As a wonderful p.s. to this post, I made it home fairly uneventfully. Our plane left Dubai two hours late (that’s 3:30 am, kids), but we managed to make it to New York only ½ hour late, and I made it through immigration and customs quickly, and had some time to sit at JFK text messaging and calling people to let them know that I was home. The relief I felt at just being in the US was indescribable. Seeing my parents at the airport – complete with large mylar “WELCOME HOME” balloon, was the icing on the cake

I met my friend Sarah for lunch that day, and as soon as we sat down, I ordered a big, fat margarita. I’m not really a big drinker as a habit, but MAN did that taste good. Some friends came over for dinner that night, which was also really fun – it felt great to cook in my own kitchen again. Dinner came out well, if I can say that without sounding arrogant, and it was just great to be around more friendly faces. Saturday I went to a friend’s wedding, which was great, then I met up with a few more friends Saturday night. Sunday morning, I went to church and Sunday night I had my family over for dinner. It was fantastic to see everyone and really get back into things – I am very lucky to have such a great community here in DC, and this past weekend was a huge reminder of just how lucky I am. I had a lot to come home to, and I don’t take any of that for granted.

The best thing, by far, came this morning – I spoke with TL and I DON’T have to go back in two weeks! In fact, I might not have to go back AT ALL!!!!!! The phone connection was really bad, so I didn’t catch all the particulars, but I am so happy. It’s just such a huge relief. My boss also said that I’m entitled to as much comp time as I want (I’m sure there’s a limit in there somewhere), and although I’ve got tons of work to do for the Yemen project, I think I will nevertheless take a day or two this week or next. Or both. Don’t know yet, but “I’ve been in Yemen” is going to be my blanket excuse for any dumb/random/jackass/absurd/silly behavior in which I might engage over the next few weeks. You’ll have to humor me. But it’s okay – you love me, right?

Off to do a happy dance…